Jul 2009

25 years of life on this earth. 25 years of breathing, learning, evolving......living!

It seems that every half decade is a milestone as such when past the teen numbers. 22,24,23 bear no significance like that of 20,25,30 etc. Moments in time where it seems reasonable to look back and remember the past. To what has been achieved, goals reached and lessons learnt. Something which I rarely do but what time time than my 25th birthday and thought I would share.

I can only think back about 5 years or so, anything before that seems to be quite a blur.
So here are the weeks surrounding July 16th for past years gone.

2005
"Fresh off the plan & not so fresh out of Glastonbury"

My arrival date to England was set in concrete, all travels had to end by this date as the excitement for this one event had been building for months. Glastonbury Festival, the biggest performing arts festival in the world and my only chance to taste the goodness as by the time it returned in 2007 my visa would have all but run out.
Coming fresh of the plane from Amsterdam I can still remember the very words the customs official pronounced at Bristol airport.
"Sir, you need to realise that drugs are not tolerated here as in The Netherlands and any misuse of the law will result in your deportation. Have a pleasant working holiday sir."
Arriving in Bristol with no camping gear whatsoever, an effort was made to rectify this problem. Not so much the camping side but more the drinking side of things, although this did not have a favourable outcome.
Standing at the festival gates I knew I had to find somewhere to stay; surly all these tents people are bringing won't be filled with bodies. And they weren't. I managed to find my spot inside a ti-pi tent with Jen, Joe, Catherine and numerous others and we all enjoyed the mid and music together.
It's weird as I don't think I could do that again; just turning up and finding people to stay with at the drop of a hat.
I managed to stay on at the festival as a litter picker, my first job in England and definitely not my last. Being out of contact with the world in the middle of Worthy Farm meant that the unfortunate events that rocked London were not known until days after and thus decided to stay in Bristol until things settled down.
I had found a place to live in what would be my new home for the years to come. London. Arriving to a house in the eastern suburbs which everyone had previously told me to avoid, but the price was still out of my budget and had no choice but to take it. And so was living in E10 - Leyton with a bunch of South Africans.
I don't think I was working at the time, but I do remember marking my birthday with a drink at the local pub.
For those that don't know any South Africans it might be hard to understand but they have, well a way about them. Words were said to another group and before I knew it everyone was running out of the pub sprinting down the street as a car roared after us and the group that was also previously in the pub jump out with cricket and baseball bats. One concussion latter and a few scrapes, brad (nursing his black eye) and I were off to celebrate the proper way at GlobalGathering Festival just north of Shakespeare's old joint.

2006
"Monsters, Bulls, Tents & Trucks"

A full on few weeks, after a bit of organising it was time to start the first leg and off to Scotland it was. Spending 3 days honing around seeing anything that was anything from our little yellow bus, we managed to cover a lot of ground; as far north as the Isle of Skye and back across to Aberdeen glimpsing at numerous lochs and mountains as they whizzed by and what any tour would not be complete without a visit to Loch Ness for a bit of monster spotting. Before long it was back to Edinburgh to meet up with Anna; who I was travelling with in Russia, a few more days in Scotland and then down to Spain to start my new and very brief job.
San Fermin festival was fast approaching and thousands of people were about to decent on the Spanish town of Pamplona and hundreds of which would be camping at the camp site I was now employed; well if we got the tents up in time. The details are vague but the memories rich. Jo, Emma, Jacquie all making it worth wild as it was shit work. The memory of a rather large lady squawking orders, picking used condoms from the tents of last season, melting in the 35 degree Spanish summer and being given detention for a reason I can't remember but having to cook dinner for a bus of new arrivals at 3am, and finally enjoying the benefits of what a security uniform and Mag torch can bring. But we were here for one reason, to be chased round the narrow streets of Pamplona whilst intoxicated and covered in red wine with a pack of seathing angry bulls at your heels.
A quick stopover back in London for some last minute preparations and it was back in the air; this time to Berlin.
Not being the first time in the German capital this time I was here for one reason. Love Parade 2007 and what would be the last parade held in Berlin. This single event has to be the greatest and most amazing birthday experience I have has to date. Being granted passes from my recent bar job I picked up at Ministry of Sound in London, myself and Tara were granted access to ride on the MoS float through the swarm of international revelers for hours on end. Such an unbelievable experience and one that won't be forgotten anytime soon!

2007
"Ibiza Ibiza"

What an interesting summer 2007 was. Big highs, big lows, penniless and an illegal alien. The stress of Ibiza was at its height in July. The midway mark from the day I arrived and the point where something had to give. Living in a one bedroom apartment with at that time 7 others was the start of the fracture.
Money issues were starting to become a serious problem and paying the rent a struggle but still we slogged on. An unsuccessful attempt to get my passport re-stamped in Switzerland to allow another 3 month stay proved a waste of time but provided some valuable alone time which was quite a rarity on the island. Upon my return it was this alone time I began to cherish and decided to leave the party capitals for a view on a more realistic lifestyle waiting on the other side. It was here I spent the 16th. Basking in the sun and riding the surf of the clear blue waters and capping it off watching the sun set with the rhythmic percussion of drums in the background. A true escape from paradise.

2008
"Sleepless in Seattle"

Having just arrived in Seattle after too many days at sea steaming from San Francisco, the last thing I wanted to do was spend it with my fellow crew members. So after finishing off the awesome cake shaped like a guitar (strings & all!!) made by the on board chef, I strolled into town looking for something to do. Preferably with music and definitely with alcohol.
Well things just happened to fall into place and whilst having a bite to eat under the shadow of the Space Needle friends were made and a long night ensued, American style. To think that a year before I couldn't even afford to buy food to rewarding myself with a massive juicy steak and gallons of beer; it was a start of a new beginning.
Being the beginning, money had to be made; so it was back to work the next morning after an hour or so of sleep to wash down the boat yet again in the freezing Seattle summer.

Either i just can't find any photos or it was just so un-eventfull I just didn't take any!!

2009
"From Europe with Love"

Predicting a year of change earlier in the year, it certainly hasn't disappointed. The mind maturing, the ideas changing, the goal posts moved. The past few weeks have been that of excitement. Having just left Belarus after 2 weeks of an extraordinary cultural experience and plant in motion for a 2 month trip through Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran; the gloom of the months before seems to have past as realisations are brought into the daylight.
I have a feeling that 25 is a milestone for me. The year my eyes opened to things once closed. The year where money is no longer a problem and the year were I become proud of what has been achieved for the first time.
To celebrate this special year it needed to be marked somehow; a permanent reminder to look back on and not forget the achievement.
A few months ago Roderigo and myself came up with a tattoo idea. This idea is now a permanent symbol on my inner wrist to never be forgotten and to give energy when called upon.

I can't help but wonder and be filled with excitement for what the next 5 years will bring, as so far my life on this earth has been lived with no regrets and I plan on keeping it that way.

Peace xx

Wedged in between Russia and the ever expanding Europe, sanctions from the United States, a major exporter in arms and still under a Soviet style regime; this country just a bit smaller than Romania is suffering from an identity crisis and with tensions growing to the east it might just be the time to decide which was the country will head.
Let me introduce Lukashenko's pride and joy; the Republic of Belarus.

Being a visitor in Belarus (Bella-rous) is not an easy feat. tourism is practically non existent and thus trying to research the destination is just a a challenge in its self; unless of course you are up to speed with the Russian dialect. The major guidebook just graciously give a bite size snippet of pages which usually feature heavily around Minsk and a few pages if your lucky outside the city confines. Any published map you have might as well be used as fuel for the heater as the Roman alphabet does not nor never has existed here, so standing on a street corner trying to decipher the street name stuck on the building which is in Cyrillic and the one on the map which for some reason uses the Roman alphabet; your soon quick to realise you in for a challenge, a challenge which I gladly and enthusiastically accepted.

The disorientation started right from the moment I arrived. The morning rush hour had just started as I disembarked the bus from Riga on a gloomy wet morning.
Where I was? Unknown
Which was was north? No idea
I knew that I was in Belarus as the border formalities in the wee morning hours had woken me from an uncomfortable sleep. But was this Minsk? Normally before arriving to a destination I have a vague idea of where the bus station actually is and to what direction I need to go but all I knew is that Minsk has 3 and the most central and convenient station was closed for renovations. This left the other two somewhere in the suburbs of the sprawling capital, one of which I knew was near a Metro station. But which one was I at?
Tied, exhausted, sweaty and sore I wasn't in the mood to be dealing with such complexities at this time of morning. Inside the terminal I try to cast my mind back to the days when I was in Russia, the use of hand signals, sketches and sound to get my message across, but to no avail. No one could decipher my messages and direct me to a Metro station if even there was one here. I did notice however that people seem to be "scared" for some reason, in my research before hand it was said that Belarusians are shy people even more so than there Russian neighbours and OK I was a bit smelly but when people start shimming away in all direction but towards you you have to start to wonder. I did latter learn that tourists are an endangered species here, especially one with a material 'hump' attached to there backs and just seeing one causes disbelief.
I never did find out what bus station I was at. It was in Minsk however and before I knew it I was at the hotel where upon entering my room for the night I thought I had being transported back into the 1960's (minus the color TV of course!)

Still firmly planted in 2009 (although the buildings and surroundings would have you think otherwise), I was now somewhere in the city center but still post. Being lost in a city is quite an exciting experience, unless of course you need to be somewhere in a hurry. The opportunity to discover places and just admire the raw beauty without having any idea what you are looking at hold a certain charm. It can be quite a challenge to remain lost in a city for an extended period as the chance of stumbling upon a Metro, Tram, Rail or local bus station can be pretty much guaranteed and thus taking you back to familiarity or off into another unknown territory.
With the orientation issues solved it was time to see just what this country is like from the inside and what the citizens here feel.

I'm not a political man; I never have being. My views on politicians is that of selfish money grabbing buracates but that governments are a necessity as we as human beings need rules and structure. Being in Belarus and not talking about politics is near impossible as everything here rotates or is connects to the government and thus everyone has a very strong view on what the believe should happen, will happen and has happened.
I began to embrace the idea of involving myself in political conversations and actively asking questions as my curiosity grew, trying to paint a broad picture of views and to see what people believe should happen in the coming years as the political situations around the world are changing and also just what life is like living in a policed state.

Crime here is non existent. Belarus has the most police per capita than any other country and reportedly 25% of the population is somehow involved in the still very active KGB here. Rules are plenty and strictly adhered to, any deviation can result in swift action from the authorities in a variety of ways. Lukashenko who has been president of the republic since '94 now has about the tightest grip possible on the media and economy. The financial 'crisis' crippling neighbouring countries has barely made a dent here, unemployment is pretty much nil and homelessness unheard of. Its easy to see why in particular the older generation have no problem living under such a regime.
Coming as quite a shock to me was the fact that the country is not as cut off as I had expected. McDonald's, TGI Fridays, American TV shows and pop music from around the world all exist here; steadily dripping from the outside borders and giving rise to a new generation of Belarusians who may just have it in them to provoke change.

Beyond the political situation lies an amazing country with equally amazing people. I can't help but draw similarities to there Russian neighbours as there are plenty that I have notices. I have not being here long enough to distinguish just what makes the Belarusian people unique. The friendliness here is unbelievable and although its hard to encounter this on the street, taking a step inside a bar or cafe soon reminds you and the curiosity of someone from a far flung land visiting a dingy basement cafe beings delights to all involved.

My time in Belarus was varied and a real eye-opener. Weather strolling the streets of Minsk in what feels like a Soviet time capsule, to listening to live jazz bands playing American classics with such talent and energy in a smokey bar in the suburbs. Partying with 50,000 20-somethings to some of Europe and the worlds best DJs at the GlobalGathering festival or celebrating the official "Independence Day" with all the glitz and glamour of its American counterpart.
Belarus, if anything is just simply interesting. Something quite rare and that is so very close and assessable. For me it was a unique experience that is no so easy to get in the world today and one that anyone who has even the slightest interest in should do, even just to from an opinion of there own of a country that changing; in a direction unknown.

Check out the pics here >>>
http://redmonkey.smugmug.com/gallery/8799851_zyMqP#582614183_4Yv9f

I've had many ideas in the past, some of which I have acted on; others simply dissipate back into the cells that created them. But the majority seem to originate whilst riding some form of transport, in particular buses.

There seems to be no logic, direction or focus on any particular subject just random glitches in the brainwaves triggering a series of events. Past glitches have included numerous web based sites ranging from Worldwide Walking Styles to one focused on young Europeans and "Capturing the Flag" and to the creation of new devices and sporting events. But the one thing that makes an idea great is it implementation, evolving from the idea of creation to creating the idea.

On a trip in the last few days through rural Belarus one such idea was born. Perhaps the conditions were just right for such a creation.
taking the normally4.5 hour trip from Brest to Grodno I took my seat in what can only be assumed as a 1980s Russian "bus". Unlike its European cousins it is minus a few of the things that seem to be taken for granted on an intercity bus. Shock absorbers, padded seats, air conditioning and a fully working engine have not yet made it to this part of Belarus yet it seems. At first the air conditioning was noted as non existent; as the temperature outside hovered around the 30s and the humidity off the chart, but luckily this model had working windows available.
We set out from Brest at our top seep of 70 Km/h along what I am reluctant to call roads. Arching up and down like a bucking bull as the driver tried to avoid any hole bigger than his tyres. The roads here are terrible, not the worst I have come across but when your sweating uncontrollably and hovering 2 inches above your seat it doesn't make for a pleasant ride. The Belorussians have also created a novel idea to traffic control. Upon entering a village and to reduce the speed of the traffic they have taken the simple hump and multiplied it! Just in case the first one didn't slow you down there are four more in front of it to really get you down to a snails pace. Although it seems that our driver is either partially blind or has already lost all sensation in his body as he didn't appear to slow down at all, instead his human cargo were flung around in the sweat filled interior as he continued on his way.

Well we pass through many villages but it was one that finally managed to bring up to a halt, Two things happened as we hurtled over the last in a series of humps.
One, the bus finally gave in and sputtered to a stop with a wisp of smoke chocking its passengers.
Second, it set of a chain reaction of brain waves. Arking and sparking and giving birth to an idea.
Naturally I can't give too many details as it is well...the Internet, but am in the process of registering a domain name. I'm not sure what exactly I'll do with it but gives it some sort of starting point.

The idea of spontaneous, totally unplanned travel by using only what you know and your skills to get from a specific destination by whatever means. Uncomfortable travel as such it not only pushes, grows and evolves a person it creates an environment where you meet and interact with local people thus gaining a true insight to a specific country. "Drop Me Off Here" creates an environment where the human spirit of survival, achievement and determination are binded together for the ultimate satisfaction.
As the idea stands at the moment I see a series of web based documentaries supported by online diary entries whereby upon entering a country the team of two is met by a pre-organised person with local experience and taken hours, days or weeks to a unknown destination and "dropped off". The complexities begin right from the start as only knowing what country your in and not having a map, guidebook, phrasebook or any traditional travel tools; just working out where you are to non-English speaking locals and how to get away is the first of many challenges.
The idea can also be done in cities such as New York, Mumbai, Tokyo and even London. Trying to find a destination armed with just an address and no access to a map or tourist information.

Of course for this to work I need a camera person.
So if anyone out there has a few weeks free to travel and some semi-pro video equipment and also not be afraid to "get in it" to get a shot let me know as I would be very interested to see how this pans out and if I would actually be up to the challenge myself.

I wrote a few weeks back a rather sombre post and have decided to throw some spontaneity into my own plans. I've extended my trip here in Belarus as a result of meeting some wonderful people and hearing the replies to my countless questions about their country.
I think perhaps I have become bored of Europe, its not a challenge anymore; its too easy. Travelling in Europe is now inside my comfort zone unlike before, so its time to move the boundaries again.
I'm thinking the The Urals; Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia for a month or so to quench the thirst. We will see.