The forgotten Neighbour
Mon 22 Jun 2009 - Fri 3 Jul 2009
28 °C
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Eastern Europe (June 2009 - August 2009)
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Wedged in between Russia and the ever expanding Europe, sanctions from the United States, a major exporter in arms and still under a Soviet style regime; this country just a bit smaller than Romania is suffering from an identity crisis and with tensions growing to the east it might just be the time to decide which was the country will head.
Let me introduce Lukashenko's pride and joy; the Republic of Belarus.
Being a visitor in Belarus (Bella-rous) is not an easy feat. tourism is practically non existent and thus trying to research the destination is just a a challenge in its self; unless of course you are up to speed with the Russian dialect. The major guidebook just graciously give a bite size snippet of pages which usually feature heavily around Minsk and a few pages if your lucky outside the city confines. Any published map you have might as well be used as fuel for the heater as the Roman alphabet does not nor never has existed here, so standing on a street corner trying to decipher the street name stuck on the building which is in Cyrillic and the one on the map which for some reason uses the Roman alphabet; your soon quick to realise you in for a challenge, a challenge which I gladly and enthusiastically accepted.
The disorientation started right from the moment I arrived. The morning rush hour had just started as I disembarked the bus from Riga on a gloomy wet morning.
Where I was? Unknown
Which was was north? No idea
I knew that I was in Belarus as the border formalities in the wee morning hours had woken me from an uncomfortable sleep. But was this Minsk? Normally before arriving to a destination I have a vague idea of where the bus station actually is and to what direction I need to go but all I knew is that Minsk has 3 and the most central and convenient station was closed for renovations. This left the other two somewhere in the suburbs of the sprawling capital, one of which I knew was near a Metro station. But which one was I at?
Tied, exhausted, sweaty and sore I wasn't in the mood to be dealing with such complexities at this time of morning. Inside the terminal I try to cast my mind back to the days when I was in Russia, the use of hand signals, sketches and sound to get my message across, but to no avail. No one could decipher my messages and direct me to a Metro station if even there was one here. I did notice however that people seem to be "scared" for some reason, in my research before hand it was said that Belarusians are shy people even more so than there Russian neighbours and OK I was a bit smelly but when people start shimming away in all direction but towards you you have to start to wonder. I did latter learn that tourists are an endangered species here, especially one with a material 'hump' attached to there backs and just seeing one causes disbelief.
I never did find out what bus station I was at. It was in Minsk however and before I knew it I was at the hotel where upon entering my room for the night I thought I had being transported back into the 1960's (minus the color TV of course!)
Still firmly planted in 2009 (although the buildings and surroundings would have you think otherwise), I was now somewhere in the city center but still post. Being lost in a city is quite an exciting experience, unless of course you need to be somewhere in a hurry. The opportunity to discover places and just admire the raw beauty without having any idea what you are looking at hold a certain charm. It can be quite a challenge to remain lost in a city for an extended period as the chance of stumbling upon a Metro, Tram, Rail or local bus station can be pretty much guaranteed and thus taking you back to familiarity or off into another unknown territory.
With the orientation issues solved it was time to see just what this country is like from the inside and what the citizens here feel.
I'm not a political man; I never have being. My views on politicians is that of selfish money grabbing buracates but that governments are a necessity as we as human beings need rules and structure. Being in Belarus and not talking about politics is near impossible as everything here rotates or is connects to the government and thus everyone has a very strong view on what the believe should happen, will happen and has happened.
I began to embrace the idea of involving myself in political conversations and actively asking questions as my curiosity grew, trying to paint a broad picture of views and to see what people believe should happen in the coming years as the political situations around the world are changing and also just what life is like living in a policed state.
Crime here is non existent. Belarus has the most police per capita than any other country and reportedly 25% of the population is somehow involved in the still very active KGB here. Rules are plenty and strictly adhered to, any deviation can result in swift action from the authorities in a variety of ways. Lukashenko who has been president of the republic since '94 now has about the tightest grip possible on the media and economy. The financial 'crisis' crippling neighbouring countries has barely made a dent here, unemployment is pretty much nil and homelessness unheard of. Its easy to see why in particular the older generation have no problem living under such a regime.
Coming as quite a shock to me was the fact that the country is not as cut off as I had expected. McDonald's, TGI Fridays, American TV shows and pop music from around the world all exist here; steadily dripping from the outside borders and giving rise to a new generation of Belarusians who may just have it in them to provoke change.
Beyond the political situation lies an amazing country with equally amazing people. I can't help but draw similarities to there Russian neighbours as there are plenty that I have notices. I have not being here long enough to distinguish just what makes the Belarusian people unique. The friendliness here is unbelievable and although its hard to encounter this on the street, taking a step inside a bar or cafe soon reminds you and the curiosity of someone from a far flung land visiting a dingy basement cafe beings delights to all involved.
My time in Belarus was varied and a real eye-opener. Weather strolling the streets of Minsk in what feels like a Soviet time capsule, to listening to live jazz bands playing American classics with such talent and energy in a smokey bar in the suburbs. Partying with 50,000 20-somethings to some of Europe and the worlds best DJs at the GlobalGathering festival or celebrating the official "Independence Day" with all the glitz and glamour of its American counterpart.
Belarus, if anything is just simply interesting. Something quite rare and that is so very close and assessable. For me it was a unique experience that is no so easy to get in the world today and one that anyone who has even the slightest interest in should do, even just to from an opinion of there own of a country that changing; in a direction unknown.
Check out the pics here >>>
http://redmonkey.smugmug.com/gallery/8799851_zyMqP#582614183_4Yv9f



Posted by RedMonkey Sun 5 Jul 2009 5:48 AM Archived in Belarus Comments (0)